Some More General Reflections

I've got some time here and quickly wanted to fill you in on some more general things going on here in Chile. I'm still making every possible effort to speak Spanish and only Spanish. It's gotten hard, especially when the majority of the kids in my program (and therefore many of my classes) are speaking a lot of English, but it's become quite normal to think and speak in Spanish! I have a lot of Spanish-English conversations, but this hasn't really been a hassle. The way I see it my Spanish speaking could use more work than my understanding, which is usually the way it goes with languages, so I'm getting tons of practice with the part I need most. Although it's been a gradual change throughout the semester, and therefore harder to notice, looking back I do realize that my ability to speak coherently, quickly, and with a semi-decent accent (frikkin "rr" sound!) has improved immensely. As I assume is normal, some days are harder than others, and some times I feel as if I've plateaued in my ability to learn more, yet other days I pull out phrases, words, grammatical nuances, and a general fluidity I didn't know I had. Needless to say, it's been fun and rewarding. The one thing that has been giving me the most trouble is humor. Whereas in English I feel as if I can throw in a quick expression, a bit or sarcasm, or some other quick jive to pull out a bit of humor (you are all free to disagree!), this is harder in Spanish. As a result, I feel as though while speaking in Spanish, I am a more serious and introverted person. An interesting observation I've come across that shows the real valuable parts of spending serious time in a foreign country. Hopefully I'll be able to pick up a little more wittiness soon.

Next I'd like to shed a little more light on my favorite class here, Chilean Politics, Economy, and Culture, taught by an ND guy on staff here, Esteban Montes. First of all, Esteban is one of the most interesting professors I've ever had. Dynamic speaker, great ability to explain things in a manner we can understand, and of course first hand information on our subject matter. He is Chilean after all. The class has really taught me to appreciate the opportunity to study in Chile. I have to admit, I didn't know much about Chile before coming down here, but the country is just dynamic. It's so different from so many other countries I've learned about or visited. Some interesting facts I've learned: It absolutely controls the global copper market (with something like 1/3 of the global production); it has gone from being one of the poorest South American country 100 years ago to the richest per capita today; 4 families own 50% of the value of the Chilean Stock Exchange; the local indigenous population (Mapuche) were the most effective in all the Americas in fighting off the Europeans (this unfortunately means that poor relations between the Chilean government and the Mapuches still exists); despite being so successful at fostering economic growth and eliminating poverty, Chile is one of the most economically unequal countries in the whole world today... and on and on the list goes. I love the experience of being here more and more each day. Both in and out of class I'm learning things about Chile, the US, and myself that I just don't think I'd be learning back at ND due to the different culture and social setting.

Back to my adventures. Last Sunday I went to a Chilean soccer game between Colo Colo and La Universidad Católica. Despite being named after the university where I study, La Cato (as they call the team) doesn't currently have any connection. The name comes from the foundation of the team, when the university was involved. Colo Colo is the most popular team in Chile, often considered "the people's team" and also the most flaite, or ghetto. La Cato on the other side is regarded as the most cuico, or snobbish and elitist (probably from its roots alongside the university). This made for an intoxicating environment. We went with a group of about 18 (nightmare of a ticket organization), all of us sitting amongst the Colo Colo fans, and some of them rooting stronger than others (yours truly included). Needless to say, we didn't let anyone know we actually atended La Cato! The game was at least twice as crazy as the game in Argentina I told you about. It was completely sold out, and even though we arrived about 30 minutes early, we had trouble finding seats and all had to split up. From the report I heard, there were 700 carabineros, or Chilean policemen that often more resemble military, all dressed head to toe in riot gear. We bought tickets in the 2nd craziest section (craziest was all sold out), which in addition to being separated from the calmer sections (keep in mind no section was actually calm) with barbed wire, was also separated from the truly crazies, La Garra Blanca (the white claw) by more barbed wire. The game was intense, the fans were disrespectful, the refs and players from La Cato were verbally harassed beyond belief... AND IT WAS AWESOME. As my program has over twice as many girls as it does boys, I was privileged to sit with 4 gringas from ND amongst hoards of drunken Latin Americans. Boy did the guys love flirting with the girls! My nickname immediately became cuñado, or brother-in-law, because the Chileans all wanted to marry the gringas. After a great game, Colo Colo came out on top 3-2 and we celebrated the whole metro ride home. Great way to spend a Sunday.